Paddles of 2015
4/19/2015 Narrow River, RI
4/25/2015 East Branch Westport River, MA
6/6/2015 Freeport, ME
7/5/2015 Wash Pond, NH
7/10/2015 Lake Champlain, VT
7/18/2015 Stonington, CT
(six paddles in 6 NE states... cool)
7/25/2015 Boston Harbor Outer Islands, MA
7/31/2015 Sakonett Point Rescue Practice, RI
8/8/2015 URI Bay Campus to Narrow River and Whale Rock, RI
8/14,15,16 Casco Bay , Bangs and Goslings, ME
8/29,30 Boston Harbor Inner Islands, Bumpkin and Grape, MA
12/27,28,29,30 Everglades City, FL Pavilion Key, Mormon Key, Crooked Creek Chickie
Monday, April 20, 2015
Sunday, December 28, 2014
Johnstone Strait and Broughton Archipeligo
More than 6 years ago I bought some maps to plan a kayaking
trip. The destination was Vancouver
Island. The attraction was seeing Orcas.
And the wait was worth it...
The maps I'm referring to were of British Columbia and
Washington State. The important paper
references were John Kimantas' book
"The Wild Coast 3" and Coastal Waters Recreation maps of
Broughton Archipelago and Johnstone Strait .
More recently, www.bcmarinetrails.org and innumerable web pages from
others who have made similar trips have augmented my research.
The Orcas were most likely going to be in Johnstone Strait
and Blackfish Sound. Both of these areas are visually somewhat uninspiring and
subject to wind and tidal current issues.
Broughton Archipelago was visually stunning, more protected, but had
much lower whale sighting odds. Between
these areas lies Hanson Island. The
currents through Weynton Passage and Blackney Passage on the west and east side
of Hanson can exceed 5 knots and are subject to complicated rips.
The area is also subject to overcrowding. During the summer numerous outfitters run
multi day tours in the area. This
implied June or September were the desirable times to be there. The research showed late summer was more
favorable for the whales.
Finally, the area seemed a little more than Keri and I could
do safely as a pair. So we needed some
others to come out and play with us!
One of Keri's strengths is advanced planning. She had frequent flyer miles that were going
to expire so she said "pick a week in September" and we'll get
tickets to Seattle. (Actually we
scheduled two weeks. And the vacation in
September was to coincide with one of those birthdays ending with a ZERO.) I've never successfully used my frequent flier
miles before... Keri managed to get us a non-stop flight out and a 1 stop first
class ride back! All at very reasonable
times of the day. And all for $15 each!
Next was the search for partners. Our friends Jody and Scott signed on. Their neighbors, George and Donna followed
suit. Unfortunately, none of these 4
were highly experienced paddlers. What
they were was very skilled campers. They
were willing to take on the adventure.
And as I found out, they happily persevered through some of the more difficult moments.
Jody and Donna took the lead on meal planning. I was the paddle planner. Keri, George and Scott were usually the highly
important "voices of reason".
Early on I learned that typical weather in Johnstone Strait in
September is foggy until 11 AM and windy from the NW from 12PM on. This left only one reliable hour of paddling
a day!!!! Additionally, the tide would
be ebbing out of JS against the prevailing wind most afternoons of the week we
were paddling. Ouch... I wished I had
looked at the tides before choosing the week... damm. Every blog I read told of at least one day of
being "weathered in" per week.
Also, the water is cold year round and large vessels like cruise ships
and commercial barges use the shipping lanes that we would need to cross.
The crux of paddling in the area is getting by Hanson
Island. A group of experienced paddlers
could probably run with the currents if the winds were reasonable. Our group would have to time the passage at
slack water. Ideally, it would be slack
water turning to the direction of travel.
Of course, during our week it would be slack water turning against us.
An early realization was that we couldn't schedule to do
these crossings twice. The "voices
of reason" decided that we'd do the crossings outbound and schedule a
water taxi to pick us up for the return trip.
This opened up the option of traveling out further into Broughton
Archipelago. (We also knew that if the
weather was bad we could have the water taxi drop us off in Broughton
Archipelago and skip the crossings altogether.)
Our travel plans would get us to Telegraph Cove near mid day
on Sunday. I wanted to do a short paddle
into Johnstone Strait that day so that we could see what it was like and get a
feeling for the conditions beyond what I "imagined" they'd be
like. It would also allow us to perfect
our kayak loading and assess everyone's capabilities.
My plan was as follows:
Sunday: Telegraph Cove
to Blinkhorn Peninsula before the currents turned against us at 4PM (3 miles)
Monday: Cross Johnstone Strait and station in the Plumper
Islands near the 10AM slack water (this is an area with high currents and tidal
rips). If all went well we'd get to the
north side of Hanson Island. (6
miles) If we were late, we'd stay on the
south side of Hanson and try again at 11AM the next day.
Tuesday: Cross Blackfish Sound near 11AM slack. Camp on Owl Island on the lower end of
Broughton Archipelago (6 miles)
Wednesday: Paddle
along the Queen Charlotte Strait side of Broughton Archipelago to Crib
Island. (5miles)
Thursday: Paddle up
Fife Sound with the tide and wind after 12 PM to Burdwood Group Islands. (12
miles)
Friday: Paddle down
to Echo Bay with the tide before 1 PM (3 miles)
All the mileages were very doable. I was assuming we would add to them with
explorations or make up for lost time by doing two day's paddles in one day.
At any time we could fall back to the more protected inside
of Broughton Archipelago if needed. The
shortest path distance from Telegraph Cove to Echo Bay is only 22 miles so
worse case we could do it all in two days of paddling. If it took us too many days to get around
Hanson Island we'd just stay in Johnstone Strait. There seemed to be plenty of fall
backs. We'd "go with the
flow". (Keri and I also had the
fall back to take a whale watch boat ride after paddling if we didn't see
whales.)
We arrived in Telegraph Cove before noon. Lunch, kayak rental details, and boat loading
went surprisingly smooth and we were on the water before 2:30. In a little over an hour we had traversed the
3.5 miles to Blinkhorn Peninsula, our destination for Sunday night. The weather was a nice, the winds were light. The current, late in the cycle, had some
speed but only the smallest of rips and a hint of an occasional slow
whirlpool.
The forecast was for some wind building through the evening
and high winds possible the next day.
The three couples set up their tents in a semi-protected area above the
"high tide grounded logs" that we would so often see. Dinner and an early bed was our preparation
for our first crossing the next day... if the weather would let us.
About midnight Jody got up and realized that the dromedary bags
that we left near the high tide line were at risk of floating away. There are no reliable sources of water once
you leave Johnstone Strait and we had to
carry 4 liters per person per day with us.
What a tragedy that would have been to lose our fresh water on the first
day. Jody moved the dromeys to higher
ground then she and Scott pulled the boats up higher. Soon she woke Keri and I telling us our tent
was in imminent risk of being inundated by the tide that was sneaking around
the higher ground to the lower spot where we had pitched. Did I mention that the week we chose also had
moon tides? It was at 12:30AM the first
day that I realized why I needed to know when high tide was not just the slack
water times. The slack water is not at
the same time as the high tide like we are used to in Narragansett Bay because
of the large and distant bodies of water that need to be flooded through Johnstone
Strait and other passages. Fortunately
we were within minutes of high tide so the water would not be rising any
higher.
In the morning there was a breeze of about 10 knots and it
was overcast. (It sprinkled a bit over
night.) To be sure we made our timing we
packed our boats without having coffee or breakfast. There was a 1 and 1/2 foot beam chop on the crossing of Johnstone. George and Donna in their double were
zig-zaging +/- 30 degrees to the chop the whole way. We all reached the other side safely. We were now in the protection of the Plumper
Islands on the West side of Hanson Island.
The group was watching seals and eagles and starting to talk about
breakfast. I suggested that we keep
going to the north side of the island while the tide was in our favor. Before I knew it we were in a rip with chaotic
short 1 footers. We were already late
making our passage. Jody seemed happy as
a clam. I was worried about the
group. Keri was singing "I don't
want to be here" songs but paddled through confidently with a little
encouragement. George and Donna were generally behind us and
recognized the rip and avoided it all by staying far left.
We were now less than two mile from what would be our camp
site. But the winds had picked up to a
steady 15+ knots and the seas were near 2 foot and choppy as new waves can
be. We made it about half way and there
was some concern about going on. I
was "pretty sure" that we
could pass the next point inside of Spout Island, the small island off the
point. The available charts in this area are 1:40,000 which is fine for open
water kayaking but marginal if you are trying to decide where the rock garden
passages are. Passing around the outside
of Spout Island in these conditions could have been beyond the capability of
the group. There was a general
"lets tuck in this cove for safety" call.
We pulled up on a muddy beach to make our breakfast at about
11AM. There was some sun but the wind
was deeply chilling me in my wet cloths.
We looked for a potential camp site in this cove but the options would
give us a long carry out of a muddy cove when we left the next morning at low
tide. After we ate we all got back into
the boats to see what the conditions would look like. I gathered everyone in the lee of an island
and checked on the willingness and confidence of the group. They were willing, I was questioning the wisdom
of doing it. I held the group again In
the lee of the last island. I went out
into the open water and made a decision.
I knew the group could make the short passage into the next cove. If there were any issues we could probably do
it rafted up. If anyone went over we
would drift into shore not out to sea. I
suggested we go....
There was some excitement but everyone made it no
problem. Scott and I were visited by a
sea lion. He didn't hang around and we
couldn't pause to watch him. As soon as we
rounded the point we were in a beautiful cove.
The cove was protected from the wind and in the warmth of the early
afternoon sun. We looked around for a
camp site for nearly an hour. Combined,
we got in and out of the boat about eight times. We passed inside one more island into the
next cove and found a beautiful camping spot.
(This passage was protected unlike the previous one.) Home at last for Monday!
The open water of Blackfish Sound was about a half mile away
out of the cove. Somewhere in the late
afternoon while we were all sunning ourselves on the beach I thought I saw a
black spot on the water. I ran up and
got the binoculars to have a closer look.
Within about ten minutes I was certain that I was seeing a whale. Over the next hour we could see (and hear)
Humpbacks and Orcas. They were about a
mile away but we could still tell that there were male, mom, and baby orcas out
there.
I couldn't wait to get on the water the next day. We were departing at low tide so the carry
was long. But unlike the rocks on the
first morning, the bottom was sandy with
seaweed. I leaped ahead of the others to get views into Blackfish Sound. It quickly became clear that there were about
6 Humpbacks in a two mile radius of us.
The question became where to situate ourselves to encounter whales
without chasing whales. It was flat calm
and the group seemed content to linger in the center of the channel watching
the spouts and tails around us. I was a
bit concerned that we were sitting in the middle of a shipping lane. I was monitoring Chanel 71 on the marine
radio to check for shipping but honestly was finding it difficult to figure out
what the communication I was hearing really meant. (All large ships have to call in before
passing through the area to avoid collisions in the tight passages, some of
which have blind corners.)
Eventually we made it far enough across to the Swanson
Island side. It was near this shore
that we had our closest encounter. This
Humpback sat at the surface within 100 yards of us for a minute or so. We could see it rising and sinking as it
quietly inhaled and exhaled at the surface.
Then it dove with the characteristic flair of its tail. We were thrilled.
In total we spent
about 75 minutes with the whales. We
rounded the top of Swanson Island right before the currents turned to insure we
wouldn't have to fight any currents or rips just to get out of Blackfish Sound.
For the rest of our afternoon we practiced our map reading skills to figure out
where we were. We knew we were around
the islands in the entrance of Knight Inlet but which island was always a
little in doubt.
We stopped for lunch at one of the camp sites on Owl Island. It was nice but shady and I was pretty
cold. The other site on Owl was reported
to have a shallow cove so we looked at a spot on Cedar Island. This one was unimproved but beautiful. It faced the west and was warmed by the
sun. Home for Tuesday night! A dry sunny day when the wind never really
picked up. Lucky.
The forecast for Wednesday was marginal. Our plan was to paddle the Queen Charlotte Strait side of the islands if
the weather allowed us. The fall back
was the appropriately named Retreat Passage.
In the morning there was no sign of wind so we headed out across Spring
Passage and into the maze of small islands off Bonwick Island. There were more Humpies near Arrow
Passage. They weren't very close but we
could hear them vocalizing and spouting. I also watched one tail slap about a
half dozen times.
There were very strong currents in some of the passages in
our approach to a lunch (and potential camping) site in Sunday Harbor. We discussed our destination for the
evening. The recon indicated there could
be Orca in Fife Sound so we wanted to set up camp on John Island. We had paddled a leisurely 7 miles before
lunch. John was still 6 miles away. The
group was comfortable with continuing on.
The views just kept getting better and better. The small islands on the edge of Queen
Charlotte Strait were giving way to larger, taller islands. The open water was gone and we were oscillating
between tight passages and small bays.
We were pretty tired by the end of Misty Passage but still had a few
miles to go.
The views around John were as beautiful as any. The beach at the camp spot was smooth with white
shells. Unfortunately, a place to set up
a tent, let alone three, was nonexistent.
I crunched through the woods while the others appreciatively got out of
their boats. Nothing. I checked the GPS waypoint and sure enough we
were in the right spot. There was a tree
down right where the most promising site was.
Maybe the site had fallen into dis-use.
We had to try the site on the other side of the island.
The site on the other side was the same story. Right spot, no place to put the tents. This time Scott got out to give a look. Back around the island to the first
spot. George, Scott, and I all trudged
around looking. Meanwhile the women were
preparing themselves to go back to Insect Island. We hadn't actually looked at that site when
we passed it earlier but they were convinced it was our best option. By this time we are at the highest point of
current flow out of Fife Sound. The
receding 20 foot tide had left our heavily laden boats high and dry. We have no idea what direction or how strong
the currents will be in the 200 foot wide passage we need to go back through.
We did 4 and 6 person lifts to re-float the boats. It all went smooth but by the time we got to
Insect Island we had done a 17+ mile day instead of the 12 mile day we
expected. However, this home for
Wednesday night was our best spot yet! And
again the whole day had been sunny with little or no wind, despite the dire
forecast.
The plan for Thursday was to get to the Burdwood Group. This would put us beyond our Friday
destination but set us up to ride the ebbing current to Echo Bay on Friday
morning.
Thursday's paddle was in extremely light air and again sunny
and warm. The only wildlife was seals
but we didn't mind. The camp Thursday
night was the best yet. A white shell
isthmus connected our island to smaller islands. We had a protected Cove and a view
overlooking mountainous islands that faded into the BC mainland complete with
snow caps and ice fields. The wind did
pick up a bit in the evening. But it
didn't affect our paddling.
Friday's paddle was only 3 miles. Short of a hurricane, we would have no
problem and the forecast was actually benign.
We made the short paddle at a relaxed pace and cooked a
"brunch" on the beach in Echo Bay while we waited for the water taxi
to pick us up on the dilapidated government pier.
James from Silver
King Marine arrived an hour early which was great. We weren't quite ready for him but we were
ready to be ready! What a mound of stuff
we loaded into the boat. We had never
before seen all the stuff that fit in 4 singles and one double in one
place.
On the ride back James saw birds working in Blackfish
Sound. He stopped the boat and shut down
the engines so we could watch and photograph Humpy's feeding. The whales were coming vertically to the
surface with mouths agape, one time two
whales together. It was awesome. There was a chance that we could have
intercepted (legally of course) Orcas but they had already headed up Johnstone
Strait before we arrived in the area.
Back in Telegraph Cove we returned the boats and
equipment. It was time for showers and a
decadent meal at the local restaurant. The
week had been far better than we could have realistically expected. Sure, the Orcas didn't come visit us up close
but now I have a reason to go back and try again.
Some other details:
We rented from the boats from North Island Kayak. They were Seaward Aurora's (17.5’x24”). The double was a Seaward Southwind
(21’x30”). They were fine, I was
reasonably comfortable in the boat and with its loading and handling. I spent most of the time with the rudder up. The spray skirts were neo but loose and
leaky. The paddles were as you expect
for a rental (I brought my own 4 piece Lendal).
We carried 20 liters of water each for the 5 full days out
(4 liters per day/person). We used less
than 3 liters per day per person. But,
we didn't dump out any cooking water (like when cooking spaghetti) and we
washed and rinsed dishes with salt water and cleaned ourselves with baby wipes. No regrets on bringing that much water.
The weather was well beyond what it should have been. The locals said "this NEVER
happens" (a string of 5+ nice days).
I personally was cold at times when wet and out of the boat. I'm not sure how warm I could have stayed if
it had rained multiple days in a row.
The water is cold. I
did not measure the temperature but I could not leave my hands in for very
long. As a group of six I was
comfortable paddling within a mile of shore in "fleece" vs wetsuit or
drysuit. If it was just Keri and I we
would have had to wear immersion clothing.
Jody, Scott, Donna and George all took the kayaking
seriously and practiced wet exits, bracing, and rescues before the trip. A
capsize in real conditions is different from in the pool/lake but the awareness
would have definitely helped if a problem had occurred.
We were quite capable of doing this adventure unguided. I am certain that we had a better experience
on our own. However, we all did a lot of
advanced planning and preparations.
September was a good
choice if you desired solitude. Tuesday
was the only day we saw a significant number of kayakers (a tour group). Most days we saw about two or three over the
course of a day.
And most telling... I would go back and do it again in an
instant.
Saturday, March 08, 2014
Paddles of 2014
March 7 St John, VI Cinnamon, Maho, and Francis Bay
June 7 Gloucester to Manchester
July 19 Gloucester, West Side
July 23 Lake Cochituate practice session
July 26 Lake Jody pool practice
July 27 Boston Harbor "inner islands"
August 31 Lake Cochituate paddle and practice
September 7 Telegraph Cove to Blinkhorn Point, Johnstone Strait, BC (3.4m)
September 8 Hanson Island, Blackfish Sound, BC (7.5m)
September 9 Cedar Island, Broughton Archipeligo, BC (8.6m)
September 10 Insect Island, Broughton Archipeligo, BC (17.1m)
September 11 Burdwood Group, Hornet Passage, BC (7.8m)
September 12 Echo Bay, Cramer Passage, BC (4.5m) to TC (22.5m)
September 27 Sakonnet Point
October 25 Fort Wetherel
December 27 Wickford to Rome Point
June 7 Gloucester to Manchester
July 19 Gloucester, West Side
July 23 Lake Cochituate practice session
July 26 Lake Jody pool practice
July 27 Boston Harbor "inner islands"
August 31 Lake Cochituate paddle and practice
September 7 Telegraph Cove to Blinkhorn Point, Johnstone Strait, BC (3.4m)
September 8 Hanson Island, Blackfish Sound, BC (7.5m)
September 9 Cedar Island, Broughton Archipeligo, BC (8.6m)
September 10 Insect Island, Broughton Archipeligo, BC (17.1m)
September 11 Burdwood Group, Hornet Passage, BC (7.8m)
September 12 Echo Bay, Cramer Passage, BC (4.5m) to TC (22.5m)
September 27 Sakonnet Point
October 25 Fort Wetherel
December 27 Wickford to Rome Point
Monday, November 11, 2013
Abel Tasman National Park, New Zealand
Thursday, November 07, 2013
Milford Sound, New Zealand
Saturday, November 02, 2013
Tuesday, January 01, 2013
Paddles of 2013
Paddles of 2013:
Jan 12, Wickford RI
Feb 3, Osprey Sea Kayak Rolling Clinic
Mar 30, RICKA Rolling Clinic
April 6, Hix Bridge to Head of Westport
April 7, Stone Bridge
July 6, Westport River, West Branch
July 28, Boston Outer Harbor
Aug 10, URI Bay Campus to Beaver Tail to Narrow River
Aug 16,17,18 Casco Bay, ME camping
Nov 2, Okarito River, New Zealand
Nov 7, Milford Sound, NZ
Nov 11,12,13, Totaranui Bay to Torrent Bay to Sandy Bay, Abel Tasman NP, NZ
Jan 12, Wickford RI
Feb 3, Osprey Sea Kayak Rolling Clinic
Mar 30, RICKA Rolling Clinic
April 6, Hix Bridge to Head of Westport
April 7, Stone Bridge
July 6, Westport River, West Branch
July 28, Boston Outer Harbor
Aug 10, URI Bay Campus to Beaver Tail to Narrow River
Aug 16,17,18 Casco Bay, ME camping
Nov 2, Okarito River, New Zealand
Nov 7, Milford Sound, NZ
Nov 11,12,13, Totaranui Bay to Torrent Bay to Sandy Bay, Abel Tasman NP, NZ
Saturday, July 21, 2012
Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada
I’ve wanted to do a fresh water paddle trip for at least 5
years. I’d love to see Lake Superior and
probably will someday but I was looking for something I could conveniently(ish)
drive to with my own boat. I had spent a
little bit of time on the shore of Lake Erie back when my son had a water ski
tournament in Pennsylvania. I was
intrigued by “real 2+ waves” in fresh water.
But I wasn’t enamored with Lake Erie itself. It seemed to have a rather monotonous shore
line. Both Erie and Lake Ontario give
me the impression of industrial areas.
I’m sure there are some beautiful areas but it isn’t what those lakes
are known for. I have done a little
exploring on Lake Champlain but this lake is too small to call an inland ocean.
The weather forecast was looking favorable over the full
four day, three night paddle we had planned.
We launched out of Dillon Cove Marina about 10:45 AM. We were initially in an area with summer
houses but they were not cheek to jowl as they are around here. And many were on small islands accessible
only by boat. It was a Wednesday so
there was not a huge amount of pleasure boat traffic. Within the first half hour we met another
couple that was returning from a week in a cabin that they paddled out to. We gathered a little reconnaissance of the
typical weather patterns and got their thoughts on the prettiest spots.
Back in our boats, we passed through a narrow passage to
open water. Within about 50 yards I
noticed a black bear walking the shore towards where we were just napping. Keri had the camera so I started pointing aggressively
to get her attention and get her to take some pictures. We watched the bear for
about 3 or 4 minutes while it popped in and out of cover while it was exploring
the shore. This brought on a volley of “did
you know there were going to be bears?” from Keri. (I knew there might be but I’m not too
concerned about black bears and I really didn’t expect to see one.) A reasonable compromise of “we’re not camping
on an island that we KNOW there are bears on” was reached.
The site was perfect protection from the wind and we woke to
a steady but dying wind just as it was forecast. Our destination was south of the put in
somewhere along Franklin Island. This
route brought us back by some cottages.
These were by far the most posh ones we had seen so far. But Franklin Island, like Hertzberg, is crown
land and there are large stretches of open space. We found what I am convinced is one of the
nicest camping spots on the bay. We
overlooked many of the bald granite islands that characterize the area as well
as the Mink Islands well off shore.
For dinner, the chicken chilly we planned on eating the
first night turned into vegetarian chili on the last night. One thing of note on this island was the
spiders. Their webs were tenacious and
strong like spectra rope. And they were spanning
any available branches. At one point we
counted nearly 20 on one 6 foot tall tree/bush.
By morning their webs had strained out dozens of midges.
The closest interesting I could find was Georgian Bay. Some internet exploration and a book by Kas
Stone had me convinced that a 12 hour ride to the lake would be worth it. Fortunately, Keri had a conference in Toronto
so we decided to combine her work with some pleasure.
It was clear from my reading that the further north we went would
result in a more remote feeling. But it
could also easily add another three hours to the commute. We settled on an area just north of Parry
Sound (birthplace of Bobby Orr!). The
broad area is known as the 30,000 islands region. The specific area we sought out is bounded by
the mainland and the Mink and McCoy Islands that lie about 4 miles off
shore. We had as a backup plan the
Massasauga Provincial Park. It is a
water access only area that is much more protected. Our plan was to go there if the weather was
looking iffy wind wise.
The expected air temperatures were 80 during the day and 60
at night. The water temperature was a
balmy 70 degrees. The combined data from
buoys and Parry Sound indicated the winds typically build onshore to about 10+
knots in the afternoon. It seemed very
manageable. What was unknown was what
it would be like. How easy would it be
to find camp sites? What distances
should we realistically plan for?
Our destination for the first evening was somewhere in the
Hertzberg Island area. We stopped for
lunch on Twin Sisters Island(s). Then we
wandered in the cove near Osawa Island.
This was the first time we could really appreciate the beauty of the
area. There still were a few cabins on
this island but there were little coves and passages to get lost in. We stopped for a break on Kneller Island
before we headed out into the wind and open water to the west.
We landed on Little Elm Tree Island. It wasn’t the best Island to camp on but we
were tired and ready to stop. The tent
was “pitched” on a gentle “pitch”. The
gentle pitch felt like a hill as our slippery down sleeping bags slid down on
the sleeping pads. And pitching a tent
here meant piling some rocks on the tabs where tent pegs usually go.
We planned on having chicken the first night and steak the
second. But the warm weather had melted
all the ice and left the food warmer than we were comfortable with. We disposed of the chicken and ate the steak
with onions, potatoes, and mushrooms. We
were in bed before sundown (9 pm).
The forecast on the marine radio (that I could only hear if
I held the radio above my head) involved high wind warnings building throughout
the day and subsiding by noon the following day. This left me a little concerned about being
stuck out on the McCoy Islands if the front lagged. Given that we had never been there and any
exploring we did would be interesting we decided to circum navigate Hertzberg
Island instead. We passed through
Frederic Inlet. This was another area
with some tasteful cottages. Cottages
interesting enough that Keri paddled up onto a rock while looking at a house
instead of looking where she was going.
(She claimed it wasn’t there earlier).
Back on the inside, we started looking for our next night’s camp. We stopped and decreed McCormick Island acceptable
but kept poking around looking for something better. I was avoiding Hertzberg Island itself
because I was sure it was big enough to be home to a few more bears.
We ended up settling on McCormick. We chose a site that would protect us from
the predicted NE and East winds. This
made both cooking (heat actually reaches the pan) and sleeping (less tent
flapping) more relaxing. We swam a bit
and explored this somewhat larger island.
The nice thing about swimming was you came out clean! Not salty and sticky. For dinner, the Pasta Primavera we planned
for the last night moved up a day.
I was prepared to deal with mosquitoes on this trip but it
turned out flies were really the problem.
We paddled out to one of the off shore “rocks” to get away from
them. While standing on the rock I was
thinking about this blog and how I would comment on the conditions. The size (100 miles by 50 miles) of Georgian Bay
means that waves can build to a good size, but they don’t linger. Within about 20 minutes of these thoughts the
winds went from calm (hence the fly problem) to about 15 knots out of the NW
quickly building a decent chop. Although
this is very manageable to most of the experienced sea kayakers it could
definitely have taken a novice explorer by surprise. And fighting this wind would certainly make a
trip to the Minks an arduous journey.
Interestingly, when we woke up we could hear a dull
buzz. I thought it might be a generator
running on some distant island. Or maybe
it was a swarm of bees somewhere on the island.
Finally Keri noticed that there was a swarm of mosquitoes about 20 feet
above our heads spanning 100’s of feet.
Fortunately, they really seemed to have no interest in us.
We packed up early because it was a Saturday. We wanted to get off the water before it got
busy with weekend boat traffic. We also
wanted to get on the road for our long commute back.
Georgian Bay is a 12-14 hour ride. When I compare the experience to other places
I’ve been it ranks pretty high. It was
beautiful. Swimming and bathing in fresh
water is a joy. It is certainly worth
doing it once and I’d go again in a minute if the opportunity presented
itself. The only things it lacked were
the ocean swells and the ability to gather seafood that you get on the New England
coast.
July 18, 19, 20, and 21. Paddled 8.5, 8.5, 8.5, and 3.5 miles. Water temperatures were in the low to mid
70s. Winds generally 10-15 in the
afternoon through evening.
Saturday, July 07, 2012
Boston Harbor
Commitments and distance from the water often keep Eric and me
from leading paddles. To compensate we
both try to be helpful paddlers during the paddles we do participate in. (Although I’ll admit I can be a bit mischievous
about the places I try to fit my boat when around the rocks.)
We both volunteered to lead a paddle in Boston Harbor. It’s a location a bit closer to our houses
and it’s also an opportunity to explore waters other than Narragansett Bay for
a change.
The plan was to lead a level 3 out of Windmill Point in
Hull. This launch point has its
advantages. You can go outside to Boston
Harbor or you can stay in Hingham Harbor if the weather is a bit iffy. Its disadvantage is that there are strong
currents in Hull Gut and it is a focal point for boat traffic. The day we chose and the start time we
selected meant that we’d launch near slack water and we’d return with the
current at our backs. (Navionics
software on my Iphone was very handy for the planning.)
There were 11 paddlers.
Scott and Sue were friends of Linda I had never met. Mary, who I see about once a year showed up. Carleen, Peter, Tim-2, Jon, Bob, Eric and
I. It was calm, warm, and overcast. We were on the water just a few minutes after
9AM and we already had some current to deal with. But it was very manageable because the water
was just starting to flow in. We made
the crossing to Georges Island as a nice tight group and then made our way
along the spit to Boston Light.
We landed at the light and spent about a half hour exploring
the island. The coast guard auxiliary
members gave us a quick history lesson but they wouldn’t let us climb to the
top of the light because a tour boat was arriving soon. The quick visit made for a nice break and
helped set the relaxed ethos that was prevalent throughout the day.
Back in the boats, we headed to Shag Rocks to play a little
bit. There was very little swell so the
danger level was low. We just poked in
and out of some of the passages. All
the same, one paddler spent some time on top of a rock and another spent a few
seconds upside down before completing an effective combat roll.
From Shag rocks we made our way to Outer Brewster Island. It was raining very lightly but no one seemed
too concerned. There was a little
excitement as the occasional larger swell rolled over the exposed end of the
Island. We looked at the Graves light
house but the consensus was it didn’t justify an extra 3 miles of paddling. So instead we headed over to Green Island for
Lunch.
We landed at exactly 12:00!
Once again we were amazed how quickly a 10 foot tide comes in. Peter and Scott seemed to be continuously pulling
the boats up to keep them from floating away.
We started our return journey by Little Calf, Calf, and
Great Brewster Islands. From there we
decided to pass by the south end of Lovell and land on Georges Island to
explore Fort Warren.
There were plenty of tourists on the island. They had arrived on the frequent Boston
Harbor Ferries. But there was plenty of
space and interesting architecture that was nearly 200 years old. We walked about for another half hour.
Back on the water we had one final channel crossing back to
Windmill Point. Again, we gathered up in
a tight grouping and crossed together as a unit.
It was a totally laid back and relaxing day. The group dynamics were simply amazing. We did our crossing together in an organized fashion
yet we drifted apart a comfortable distance at appropriate times so we could
each explore in our own ways. It was quite
unlike a typical RICKA paddle! I think
there were a number of factors. I was
typically in the lead and was paddling at a relaxed rate. Eric acted as the sweep. There was no wind to cause paddlers
directional difficulties or to augment the “strong paddler into the wind” syndrome. And the lack of familiarity with the surroundings
and the exact destination also helped us to gather together before passing from
Island to Island.
I’d guess I paddle Boston Harbor about once a year on
average. I’ve experienced it when we’ve
turned around because the waves were too large as well as days like this one
where it was a mill pond. And each time
I’ve thoroughly enjoyed myself. … then
again I always say that about paddling.
7/7/2012 Water 65,
wind calm, air upper 70s. 12 miles (est.)
Sunday, June 10, 2012
The other Bay Campus
The other Bay Campus: Great Bay, New Hampshire
Keri and I were looking for a relaxing paddle where we wouldn't feel the need to get all dressed up in wet suits or dry suits. We've been talking about Great Bay for a long time and the time was finally right. We launched from Adams Point (Durham, NH) at the University of New Hampshire's Jackson Estuarine Lab. We also drove by Chapman's Landing in Stratham NH, the opposite end of the bay. Both sites looked like you'd never be shut out due to crowds or parking issues. We launched and returned at about 2 hours from low tide. I can imagine at dead low there could be some mucking required but we had no trouble.
The area was very pretty with a surprising amount of "green" and surprisingly few ostentatious McMansions. It is protected water... sort of. You can do a two mile crossing if you'd like and we experienced the 3 mile fetch in 20 mph winds. But what Great Bay is really perfect for is poking around little coves and marshes. The water was already pretty warm. There are significant shallows in the bay and I'm sure it would make a great warm water practice spot in the summer.
And then there are the currents. Great Bay empties through the Piscataqua River to the sea. It also has 7+ foot tides. Where we paddled is the broad open Great Bay. We could see a tidal rip right of Adams Point but we didn't put ourselves in it. There are definitely opportunities for excitement at the Piscataqua end. We are saving that for another day when the water is warmer.
6/9/2010 Air temperatures low 70's, winds West 10-20,
Keri and I were looking for a relaxing paddle where we wouldn't feel the need to get all dressed up in wet suits or dry suits. We've been talking about Great Bay for a long time and the time was finally right. We launched from Adams Point (Durham, NH) at the University of New Hampshire's Jackson Estuarine Lab. We also drove by Chapman's Landing in Stratham NH, the opposite end of the bay. Both sites looked like you'd never be shut out due to crowds or parking issues. We launched and returned at about 2 hours from low tide. I can imagine at dead low there could be some mucking required but we had no trouble.
And then there are the currents. Great Bay empties through the Piscataqua River to the sea. It also has 7+ foot tides. Where we paddled is the broad open Great Bay. We could see a tidal rip right of Adams Point but we didn't put ourselves in it. There are definitely opportunities for excitement at the Piscataqua end. We are saving that for another day when the water is warmer.
6/9/2010 Air temperatures low 70's, winds West 10-20,
Sunday, May 13, 2012
Blown back, Blown Roll, Blown in
It was just an ordinary paddle. Fort Wetherill, the forecast sunny, temps in the
mid 60s, light winds freshening from the south west in the afternoon, waves 1
foot.
At this time of the year I hope for cooler days (like last week’s
paddle from Gooseberry) because it is hard to dress for both the water and the
air. This week I chose my dry suit with
just a thin layer of poly-pro under it. I
jumped in the water (55 degrees) before getting in the boat. It was clear that I’d be OK but cold if I had
to swim. But with a bright sun I knew I’d
be able to warm back up.
We (CC, RB, BH, TG, TM, JS, CM, PB, Cam) headed out into
still air and very calm water. In the
open water there was the beginnings of a light breeze which make it very
comfortable and the 1 foot seas were perfect for a little rock gardening along
the Jamestown shore. We all started
without our helmets but quickly realized they would be prudent. Of course the addition of a helmet only makes
us more bold in the rocks that we take on.
Bob and I predictably ended up temporarily grounded but things were
generally pretty calm.
There is one little rock passage at the end of Southwest
Point just before you make the turn into Mackerel Cove. It appears as if it is well protected behind
a large rock but there are guard rocks and the granite behind the rock slopes
up gradually so the wash wants to run you up.
Rick and Jon seemed to be thinking about it. Tim, the last to engage in the rock
gardening, went in. He washed up the
rock a bit but maintained composure and remained in the sweet spot. Then he attempted to cross the shallow necked
down rock passage and got hung up. The
water washed out from under him and it looked like he was sitting at about a 45
degree angle pointing up. The return of
water is always a mixed blessing. It
came back in and floated him but he ended up upside down. Somehow, I think a paddle on the rock roll,
he righted himself. With a little
re-organization and a bit of a thrashing he made his way back out. The body was fine but a think the adrenalin
level was a bit high.
We slipped into the first cove and regained our
composure. It was a bit too early for
lunch in Mackerel Cove so we continued on towards Beavertail Point. I was not as warm as I would have liked so I
added my neoprene hat under my helmet.
By the time we got to Short Point, the first point as you start to head
towards Beavertail, it was clear that the wind was picking up. A command decision was made to have lunch in
Hull Cove. There were some tempting
waves along this shore but they would have washed you into the rocks if you
couldn’t get off them. No one pushed
their luck. I caught a nice one by the
sandy section that people were landing on.
Unfortunately it pushed me right towards the landing party. I managed to keep from wiping them out and
headed back for just one more ride.
Lunch was a relaxing
affair and we were all comfortable in the bright sun. After lunch we continued on to
Beavertail. The wind was now approaching
15 from the south west. We knew we’d
have an easy downwind ride home. Back in
the open water it was a bit of a slog.
We got strung out a bit. At one
point we stopped to gather up. I checked
the GPS, the wind was pushing us back at about 100 feet per minute.
We got to within striking distance of Beavertail coast guard
station and turned around. Down wind was
fun and without seeing the cresting waves we all allowed ourselves to get a
little closer to the shore. At one point
a wave grabbed my stern and rotated me about 60 degrees instantly. I started thinking about how quickly the wind
was pushing us and began to prepare my tow rope in case something
happened. It was lively enough that I
couldn’t manage to swing it around my waist to grab the carabineer. I abandoned that plan so I wouldn’t be the
one going over.
There was some great down wind surfing across the mouth of
Mackerel Cove. The shore along Jamestown
was exciting. There was calopitis and
waves were peaking up momentarily all over the place. The wind was strong enough that turning back
away from the shore was a challenge. I
never felt unsteady but my waist got quite a workout as the boat twisted and
jerked about under me.
By this point we could even surf into the Fort Wetherill
Cove! Once in the cove Rick, Cam, Jon
and I did a little rolling. Others did
well. I blew my first. Managed my second. Then blew a third. Once on shore I realized just how tired I
was. And also how windy it was. The Newport weather station listed it as 17
gusting to 25. The Buzzards Bay buoy had
a steady 30!
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